WIPER MOTOR AND COMPONENTS
best wiper components are found in the 1969-1976 Triumph Spitfire,
or TR-6. Get the entire set-up including: wiper motor, wheel boxes,
gaskets, chrome bezels, and the connecting tube between the wiper motor
right wheel box. See the wiper motor illustrations on page 42 to help
identify the parts.
Many times, the wheel-boxes available are not correct.
Measure across the
teeth of your gear to the theoretical center of the cable. (Some of the
are flat, some are concave.) If your dimension is 1.45", not 1.25", the
drive must be modified to compensate. See page below for details.
The original-style Lucas wiper motor and drive
uses a spiral-wound drive
cable that engages gears at each wiper arm. By driving the cable back
forth in a rigid housing, the gears and wiper arms rotate. The amount
rotation is determined by the stroke of the drive cable and the
of the wheelbox gears.
A switch in the motor that remains closed during 350
degrees of the rotation
of the drive gear, automatically parks the wiper arms on the right side
the windshield after the dash switch is shut off. Some motors have the
cam oriented incorrectly. Check the section
the correct orientation
Unfortunately, the best wheel boxes (listed in Section
A) are rarely available.
If your wheelboxes do not match the specifications on page 16, the
in the wiper motor may be modified to compensate. See Stroke Changes
If you are sure that the wiper motor functions
correctly and don't want to
disassemble the wiper motor itself, skip steps 4 through 8.
- Take out the 4 screws holding the cover to the gearbox, and remove
- Remove the circlip and washer from the connecting rod
big end, and remove
the connecting rod. Note the bottom washer.
- Remove the circlip and washer from the back side of
the crankshaft, and push
out the crankshaft from the housing. Retain all the parts! Note the
washer on the inside of the crankpin.
- Mark the relative position of the round motor housing
to the aluminum gear
reduction housing. Remove the two long screws holding the motor housing
the frame. Separate the two (with gentle soft hammer taps if
Do not lose the felt washer and thrust washer in the bearing cup at the
of the housing.
- Inspect the brushes for wear or sticking, the
commutator for excess wear
and arcing, and the lower bearing. Clean the parts with a solvent if
Work the brushes in and out to insure free motion.
- Install the armature carefully into the gear housing
until it contacts the
sides of the brushes. Using a hook shaped wire or other appropriate
retract each brush in turn so that the commutator can slide past the
of both brushes and continue into the gear case
- Put 1 or 2 drops of oil in the lower bearing of the
armature housing. Excess
oil will contaminate the brushes later on.
- Install the armature housing, aligning the marks on
the housing and the frame.
Reinstall the long retaining screws.
Remove the plastic gear from
the crankshaft by
edge of the gear and tapping the shaft with a soft hammer. Be careful
to damage the circlip groove.
The position of the crankpin must be changed in order
to increase the stroke
of the cable: Punch the underside of the crank plate exactly opposite
center of the crankpin. Use a 3/8" Blair spotweld cutter to cut the pin
the plate, drilling from the back side at the punch mark. The pin will
removed, together with a small piece of the plate.
Drill a 17/64" hole in the opposite side of the crankplate
indicated in the illustration. Countersink from the crankpin side just
that the crankpin will be flat on the plate after insertion into the
Weld or braze the pin in the new hole from the back.
Clean and deburr the
the plastic gear onto the crankshaft, engaging
the tangs of the gear into the crankshaft notches. Note that the
cam is adjacent to the crankpin.
Grease the shaft lightly, install the conical thrust
washer, and insert it
into the housing. Install the outer thrust washer and circlip.
Partially fill the gear housing with grease, and place
the cable into the
guide. Some guides are integral; others have separate plastic liners.
the connecting rod with its thrust washers, and the connecting rod
Install the cover plate with 4 screws.
THE CABLE/GEAR WHEELBOX CLEARANCE
you install the wheelboxes, it's a good idea to check that the cable
engages the gear properly. Unfortunately, the quality of the
wheelboxes has not been consistent lately. Make sure that the
line up properly with the gear so that there is no binding, and that
the cable is held close to the gear, but not so close to make excessive
the large nut and remove the cable tube/wheelbox assembly from the
Remove the wheelbox backing plates and disconnect the
tubes from the wheelboxes.
Using a tubing cutter or hacksaw, cut off
approximately 2 3/4" from one end
of the original tube between the right wheelbox and the motor. Save the
and the piece of tubing removed. The new tube section
original end guide.
Slide the nut onto tube nearest the motor (the shorter
of the two supplied
and with only one end flared).
Flare the end of the tube with the nut. Slide the
drive cable through the
tube. If the cable is tight at the new flare, use a 1/4" drill bit to
the inside of the tube.